My Guide to Palm Springs – See/Do/Shop

With 365 days of sunshine a year and a plethora of gorgeous lodgings, Palm Springs is the perfect vacation venue to sit around the pool and do nothing.  But that doesn’t mean there isn’t a wide array of things to do while in town.  Below is a list of my favorite local sites to see, activities to experience, and spots to shop.

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1. Robolights (1077 East Granvia Valmonte, Palm Springs) – Easily the most unique attraction the desert has to offer, Robolights is a massive immersive art installation located on the grounds of a private residence in the tony Movie Colony neighborhood.  The brainchild of artist Kenny Irwin, who as a youngster began building robot displays in the yard of his family’s home using trash and scrap materials, the exhibition has since grown to encompass the entire two-acre plot of land the pad sits on.  Christmas in theme, the site (which boasts over 9 million twinkle lights!) is only open to the public from November through December but has become something of a staple for locals no matter what month.  Left intact year-round and visible from the streets that surround it, even during the daylight hours of the off-season, it’s a spot that would make Clark W. Griswold jealous!  Though Robolights is said to be heading to Detroit this December before being installed at a new permanent location in Desert Hot Springs in 2020, it currently still sits intact in the Movie Colony and, per the official Facebook page, visitors wishing for a close-up peek can make an appointment for a tour by texting (760)774-0318.

2. Elvis Honeymoon Hideaway (1350 Ladera Circle, Palm Springs) – A rarity when it comes to former celebrity residences, Elvis Presley’s onetime desert pad is not only open for tours but looks exactly as it did when The King called it home from 1966 to 1967.  From the sunken living room to the curved banquette couch to the tufted pink bed, the place is so well-preserved it honestly feels like the singer just stepped out to grab some milk (or perhaps peanut butter and bananas) and will return within minutes to strum you a little tune on his guitar.  Known as the “Elvis Honeymoon Hideaway,” it was there that Presley spent his wedding night with Priscilla on May 1st, 1967.  But that’s not its only claim to fame.  Built by architect William Krisel for developer Robert Alexander, the dwelling is both architecturally and historically significant, as well.  Tours (held daily) are hosted by Elvis expert Michael Ochoa and trust me when I say there’s no better person to guide you through the singer’s former stomping grounds.  You can read an in-depth post about my visit to the home in 2017 here.

3. True Serenity Skin Care Spa (73890 El Paseo, Palm Desert) – My pick for the best spa in the Coachella Valley goes to True Serenity, mainly because of its owner.  I originally discovered Arlene shortly after moving to the desert many moons back when I found myself desperately in need of a facial one hot summer day.  A Google search for “the best esthetician in Palm Springs” led me straight to her.  She was working at another salon at the time and once I started seeing her, so did my mom, my dad, and even my apartment manager!  We all were devotees for years.  Then, one day, the salon announced that Arlene had left (no information about her new location was given) and I was devastated.  Considering my stalking skills, it took far longer than I care to admit to finally track her down at her new spa, but I am so happy I did.  Arlene designed True Serenity herself and it is like a little piece of heaven right on El Paseo.  The treatments also feel heaven-sent.  Besides facials, True Serenity offers massages, waxings and other body treatments, including a mean spray tan!  [Honorable mention – If you’re looking for a fabulous facial experience, but do not care about a full-blown spa atmosphere, I cannot recommend Kahnema Melkesian more.  Working out of a casita at her home and offering prices at a fraction of those of a salon, she honestly gives one of the best facials I’ve ever received.  Kahnema can be booked directly via her cell – (760)485-2420).]

4. Kitchen Kitchen (74945 Highway 111, Indian Wells) – I am not into cooking at all, but I still have hearts coming out of my eyes whenever I visit this place.  Kitchen Kitchen, which originally opened in 1979, literally has something for everyone, from specialty spices to decorative wine glasses to every culinary gadget and gizmo imaginable!  In fact, to steal the Yellow Pages motto – if it’s at all related to cuisine and it’s not in here, maybe it doesn’t exist!  After visiting Switzerland in 2013, the GC and I headed to Kitchen Kitchen hoping to buy a traditional Swiss raclette oven.  When we asked owner Jan Boydstun (who is always on hand and is a wealth of knowledge on all things culinary) if she happened to sell them, she responded, “Yes, of course!  What color are you looking for and would you prefer one with a grill or without?”  We walked out with our very own raclette oven minutes later (red and with a grill, in case you were wondering).  Though boutiquey in nature, Kitchen Kitchen’s prices rival that of Amazon.  And there’s nothing like the amazing customer service the employees provide.  Every item sold is tested by Jan herself and if something stocked is returned by more than three customers, she stops selling it.  The shop also offers a plethora of ever-changing cooking classes and events at its onsite kitchen.  This place is a true desert gem!

5. Mollers Garden Center (72235 Painters Path, Palm Desert) – Though this site is actually a nursery, it feels more like a botanical garden.  Situated against a dramatic mountain backdrop and stocked with every kind of cactus you can imagine (not to mention countless other perennials), it’s a gorgeous spot to wander and familiarize yourself with the landscape of the desert.  And it’s massive!  You can easily spend an entire afternoon perusing the selection, as well as chatting with the employees who are veritable walking/talking encyclopedias of plant knowledge with answers to any and all foliage-related questions.  And the gift shop!  Oh, the gift shop!  It’s one of my favorite boutiques in town.  Though on the pricey side, it sells highly unique décor, art, and antiques.  Let’s just say I can really do some damage in there.  Actually, being that he loves the nursery, neither the GC nor I can walk away from Mollers without making some sort of fun purchase.  (Big THANK YOU to my friend Kim for supplying the photo below.)

6. The Living Desert Zoo and Gardens (47900 Portola Avenue, Palm Desert) – The GC and I visit this spot on the regular.  In fact, it is one of our favorite places to spend an afternoon during Palm Springs’ temperate months (though it is open year-round for those who don’t mind being outdoors in the heat).  Condé Nast Traveler rated it one of the Top Ten Zoos in the United States and it is not very hard to see why – but I think calling it simply a “zoo” is a disservice being that The Living Desert is so much more!  Featuring wide vistas that showcase the animals in their natural habitats, journeying through the 1,200-acre site feels more like being on a safari, as evidenced by the photo below.  There are also gardens, ponds, a massive model train exhibit, walking trails, camel rides, giraffe feedings, a butterfly sanctuary, and an animal hospital to peruse!  The Living Desert is truly one-of-a-kind and offers a new experience each and every visit.

7. Just Fabulous (515 North Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs) – My favorite area gift shop, the Grim Cheaper and I have always referred to Just Fabulous as the “Lula Mae of the desert.”  It reminds us so much of my beloved Pasadena boutique, though with a Palm Springs slant when it comes to style, theme and aesthetic.  Featuring a wide array of Mid-Century décor items, design books, art pieces, whimsical cards, and unique novelties (there’s even an entire selection of The Golden Girls-inspired trinkets!), the offerings here can’t be found anywhere else.  Not to mention, with the vibrant color schematic, vivid accoutrements and Old Hollywood prints adorning the walls, visiting the place is like stepping into a modern art museum – or the living room of a really chic friend.  Just Fabulous is, well, just fabulous!  The store also regularly hosts celebrity book signings and special events, so check the calendar when you’re in town.

8. Destination PSP (170 North Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs) – Just a few blocks away from Just Fabulous on downtown’s main drag is Destination PSP, the best store for all things Palm Springs-related.  Here you’ll find artwork, fantastical gifts, Mid-Century Modern décor, architecture books, unique tchotchkes, and a myriad of other desert-themed merchandise (there’s even a Palm Springs Opoly board game for sale!).  It is the spot to find souvenirs to bring to loved ones back home – or to secure the perfect little trip memento for yourself.  From specialty maps to Palm Springs Film Festival posters to tissue boxes fashioned after famous local homes, there’s literally something for everyone on your list!  Even if you’re not looking for a gift, the eccentric inventory is a blast to explore.

9. Downtown Palm Springs (Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs) – Speaking of downtown PS, the area itself is a must-see!  Formerly consisting of a stretch of kitschy shops, sunglasses marts and t-shirt emporiums, Palm Canyon Drive has been revamped in recent years and is now a true contender when it comes to shopping.  Not only will you find specialty stores like Crystal Fantasy (Robert Downey Jr. is a regular!), Trina Turk, and the Christopher Kennedy Boutique, but the vast majority of storefronts are fabulously modern and sleek, so even just walking around and taking in the sights is a joy.  Some of the not-to-miss spots here besides Just Fabulous and Destination PSP include Starbucks Reserve, Ernest Coffee, Koffi and Ristretto (all featured in My Guide to Palm Springs – Coffee), Music Box & Clock Shoppe (a Pandora and Swarovski wonderland!), Lolli & Pops (champagne-flavored gummi bears- yes, please!), Jill Home Accents and Gifts, and Sinfulicious Bodycare.  Bonus – each Thursday night (summers included), the main drag is closed to traffic for VillageFest, a lively street fair featuring over 200 vendors selling art, jewelry, food, and gifts.

10. El Paseo Shopping District (El Paseo, between Portola and Monterey Avenues, Palm Desert) – Often described as the “Rodeo Drive of the desert,” El Paseo is the Coachella Valley’s other best shopping destination.  In fact, running about a mile long and boasting such upscale boutiques as Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co. and Ralph Lauren, as well as staples like Sephora, Pottery Barn and Banana Republic, the street is Palm Springs’ premier retail district.  Not into shopping?  There are also salons, restaurants and art galleries galore.  Dotted with gorgeous foliage, fountains and plenty of tucked-away chaises to rest your weary feet, you won’t want for anything here.

11. Moorten Botanical Garden (1701 South Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs) – Initially established as a nursery by Hollywood-actor-turned-horticulturalist Chester Moorten in 1938, today this virtual cactus museum is one of Palm Springs’ most popular attractions.  In fact, its cactarium (pictured below) has even been dubbed “the most Instagrammed greenhouse in the world!”  Though a scant 1.5 acres in size, Moorten Botanical Garden is definitely not lacking in foliage!  Home to more than 3,000 varieties of plants and boasting 9 geographically-themed gardens, not to mention a gift shop and a menagerie of desert animals, this spot is a must-see.

12. Araby Trail (Trailhead and parking at Rim Road and Southridge Drive, Palm Springs) – I am not typically a hiker, but this stroll is one-of-a-kind and even involves some stalking!  A 4.2-mile round-trip jaunt, Araby Trail not only offers stunning views of the surrounding valley, but an incredible peek at Bob Hope’s former home (it’s that wavy-roofed structure below) and the famed Elrod House, which cameoed in Diamonds are Forever (both were designed by John Lautner), as well as Steve McQueen and Ali MacGraw’s one-time pad.  Be aware, the hike, while thoroughly enjoyable, is semi-strenuous, so plan accordingly by wearing good shoes and bringing plenty of water, snacks and other fortification.  And for goodness sake, do not attempt it in the summer months, when temps often get up into the 120-degree range!  (I would think that last bit goes without saying, but local newscasts are rife with reports of hikers needing rescue during extreme heat.  Some are lucky, some not so much.)

 

13. Coco Rose (74855 Country Club Drive, Palm Desert) – Bright, colorful and sourced entirely from Bali, Coco Rose boasts some of the desert’s most beautiful finds.  Started by a mother-daughter team who vacation regularly on the Indonesian island, the boutique stocks necklaces, bracelets, earrings, purses, hats, cover-ups, dresses, and home décor items – all handmade by Balinese artisans and, for the most part, adorned in some way with a tassel.  I cannot resist a good tassel, so I was invariably drawn into the store shortly after it opened a few years back.  Situated next to what used to be my local market, the GC almost banned me from grocery shopping because each time I did so, I’d invariably come home with a new treasure from Coco Rose.  Thankfully, the prices are entirely affordable.  The shop is a great place to pick up presents for your fashion-forward friends.  There’s also a sister store right across the street in the JW Marriott Desert Springs which is just as fabulous.

14. Cabot’s Pueblo Museum (67616 Desert View Avenue, Desert Hot Springs) – World traveler Cabot Yerxa built this spot as both his private residence and a public museum in 1941.  Constructed from reclaimed materials from abandoned nearby cabins and housing the art he collected on his many journeys, the Hopi-inspired site is one of the most unique dwellings in the Coachella Valley.  The sprawling home – constructed entirely by hand by Cabot himself – boasts 4 stories, 5,000 square feet, 30 rooflines (!) and views for days.  Though the interior (which you can tour) is amazingly unique, the surrounding property is even more intriguing, dotted with unique installations like a 43-foot carved Native American bust, huge wood letters spelling out “CABOT,” and staged street signs half-covered by brush.  Though not abandoned, Cabot’s Pueblo Museum definitely has that feel.  Tours run $13 a person, but the grounds are free to explore.  And there is a fab gift shop on the premises.

15. Palm Springs Aerial Tramway (1 Tram Way, Palm Springs) – I hesitated putting this one on the list, but I do feel like everyone should experience it once, especially those who love to hike.  While the peak offers stunning views and the tram ride is an experience in and of itself, I did not particularly enjoy my visit thanks to a bout of motion sickness.  As someone who has always been able to read in the car and has no problem on boats, I was shocked that the tram made me nauseous.  It slowly rotates as it makes its 5,873-foot journey upward and, for whatever reason, the turns did not agree with me.  So if you are easily motion sick, I would avoid this one, sadly.  Once at the top, though, the vistas, climate (it’s about thirty degrees cooler than Palm Springs), hiking opportunities, and topography can’t be beat.  There are also three dining options at the apex!  While I had every intention of hitting up the upscale Peaks Restaurant, described as “a culinary experience above the clouds” and ranked by Architectural Digest as one of the world’s best cliffside eateries, unfortunately, food was the last thing on my mind once I got off the tram.  I have heard nothing but excellent things about the place, though, and wish I could have partaken.

16. Palms to Pines Scenic Byway (Start at Monterey Avenue and CA-111, Palm Desert) – Those wishing to see scenic views of the Coachella Valley without having to travel on a spinning tram to do so should head to the Palms to Pines Scenic Byway in Palm Desert.  Though it does have its own share of twists and turns, a quick 8.5-mile drive south whisks you away to a stunning lookout featuring sweeping vistas of practically the entire desert.  Heading even farther up the mountain brings even more dramatic views and eventually leads to Idyllwild, a charming mountain community with shops, restaurants and cafés – the perfect place to spend a chilly afternoon.

17. Day Trip to the Salton Sea – If you’re spending more than a few days in the desert, there’s nothing quite like a road trip out to the Salton Sea!  In fact, it’s one of my and the GC’s favorite spots to take guests.  We recommend the east side of the sea as the west isn’t all that unique.  The journey takes at least five hours if you do it right and though there are some bathrooms along the way, they are few and far between.  As such, a stop at the Mecca Travel Center at the start of your road trip is suggested.  Not only can you fill up your tank with gas at the Arco on the premises (90480 66th Avenue, Mecca), but you can utilize the bathroom at the neighboring Starbucks (90496 66th Avenue, Mecca).  The plaza is the last retail you are going to see for a while.  Our typical Salton Sea itinerary is as follows:

 

First stop – the International Banana Museum (98775 CA-111, Mecca, hours vary)! Well, if we find it open, at least.  Boasting what the Guinness Book of World Records has deemed the largest collection devoted to a single fruit (yes, that’s a thing!) and with over 25,000 banana-related items on display, this place has to be seen to be believed!  Though there is a $1 admission fee, it is well worth it, especially considering that dollar can be put toward a frozen banana, or another treat, if you are so inclined.  There is a restroom here, as well – with yellow walls and a picture of a monkey sitting on a toilet eating a banana (natch!).

Your next destination, the North Shore Yacht Club (99155 Sea View Drive, Mecca), is a short one-mile journey south.  Once a luxury vacation destination, today the Salton Sea is a virtual post-apocalyptic dreamland thanks to agricultural runoff that turned the water toxic, as well as massive flooding that forced residents out in droves.  At the height of the area’s popularity, though, the Sea was the place to be and the Albert Frey-designed North Shore Yacht Club the hangout for visiting A-Listers such as Frank Sinatra, The Beach Boys, and Dean Martin.  Shuttered in 1984, the structure sat abandoned until being renovated in 2010 and today serves as a recreation center, though I’ve never seen it open.  Regardless, the club site provides some of the best views of the Salton Sea, as well as all of its secrets.  In fact, nowhere is the dichotomy of the area illustrated more than at the Yacht Club.  Standing in the parking lot offers vistas of a gorgeous blue expanse of water and pristine stretch of white sandy beach.  Venture down to the shoreline, though (which is a must!), and it becomes apparent that the sea is actually brown and the picturesque blue seen from afar just a reflection of the sky.  And that sandy beach?  As your nose likely alerted you during your journey to the tide, it’s actually dried and crushed fish bones from the thousands upon thousands of carcasses that regularly wash ashore.  Both beautiful and harrowing at the same time, the Salton Sea has to been seen to be believed.

Stop number three, twenty miles south, is Bombay Beach (Highway 111 and Avenue A, Niland), a small census-designated township made up of about two hundred homes and trailers, the vast majority of which are abandoned.  The lowest city in America, elevation-wise, Bombay Beach is also the most filmed spot in Imperial County!  And it’s not very hard to see why.  Half-vacant and dilapidated, half-populated, it’s like no other place in the world.  Thanks to the Bombay Beach Biennale, founded in 2015, the area is also now home to countless highly unique art installations (like the signage below) which are dotted throughout the various streets.  Like the Salton Sea, Bombay Beach truly has to be seen to be believed.

After perusing Bombay Beach (and you really should drive up and down every single street!), I highly recommend popping into the Ski Inn (9596 Avenue A, Niland) for a bite to eat (and yes, there’s a restroom on the premises).  Though a bit rough around the edges, the restaurant serves up some truly decent food (in fact, Anthony Bourdain had his very first patty melt there!) and is a filming location!

From Bombay Beach, head twenty miles southeast to Salvation Mountain (603 Beal Road in Niland), yet another has-to-be-seen-to-be-believed site (are you noticing a theme here?).  A monument to God’s love created in the 1980s by Leonard Knight and fashioned out of adobe, straw and local junkyard trash, the vibrant bluff stands like a beacon on an otherwise wide, flat expanse of dusty desert land.  Though Leonard passed away in 2014 after almost 30 years of maintaining the mountain, it is still intact thanks to his legions of devotees who work painstakingly to keep it going.  Today, thousands upon thousands of visitors make pilgrimages there each year, both to meditate and reflect and to view the spectacle of it all.  (If you need a restroom, the last one out this way can be found in between Salvation Mountain and Bombay Beach at the Soco Mini-Mart located at 8004 CA-111 in Niland.)

The last stop on your Salton Sea journey is Slab City (Beal Road, Calipatria), the entrance to which is located a mile east of Salvation Mountain.  Originally a World War II training facility, the township takes its name from the concrete slabs left behind after the base was shut down, where those wishing to live off the grid eventually set up homes.  With no running water, sewer system, or electricity, most residents inhabit tents erected on the slabs or RVs situated next to them.  Though it might sound desolate and dreary, the citizens have really created something unique and most couldn’t be more friendly or inviting.  Again, there is quite a lot to see here, from The Range (887 Beal Road, Calipatria), Slab City’s local BYOB bar/open-air nightclub, to East Jesus (East Jesus Road, Calipatria), an incredible outdoor immersive art museum.  (That’s one of the exhibits pictured below.)  Highly unique, celebratory of its surroundings and offering endless photo opportunities, Slab City is an amazing slice of Americana.

18. Day Trip to Yucca Valley – Another worthwhile day trip is to the Joshua Tree area on the other side of the Coachella Valley.  Offering more has-to-be-seen-to-be-believed sites, these more pastoral in nature, the region is strikingly desolate but dramatically beautiful at the same time.  Our usual journey there is a literal round trip, so you can follow the suggested route below backward as well as forward.

The area’s most notable attraction is, of course, Joshua Tree National Park.  Boasting three access points, I recommend starting at the South Entrance (Pinto Basin Road and Cottonwood Oasis Road, Twentynine Palms) and driving all the way through the park, exiting at the West Entrance (6554 Park Boulevard, Joshua Tree).  Joshua Tree is a must-see in its entirety, but some notable spots include Skull Rock (the name speaks for itself – that’s it below), Keys View (an incredible vista providing panoramic views of the Coachella Valley), and Barker Damn Loop (a short 1.1-mile trail leading to the so-called “Disney Petroglyphs”, a smattering of Native American etchings that The Walt Disney Company painted over during a film shoot so as to make more visible onscreen).

All that exploring has likely made you hungry, so upon exiting the park via the West Entrance head straight to Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace (53688 Pioneertown Road, Pioneertown), my favorite area restaurant, for lunch!  Established in 1972 as a burrito/biker bar and then re-envisioned as an eatery/live music venue in 1982, the place is still going strong today.  Housed in a ramshackle wooden building, Pappy & Harriet’s can best be described as a whimsical honky-tonk with adobe walls, posters from the many bands who have played on the premises lining the walls and ceiling, and signs stating “Hippies Use Side Door!” plastered at the front.  Though you might think the place shabby, it’s actually fabulously hip – and serves up some of the best food the desert has to offer!  As such, and considering its charmingly unique aesthetic, it has attracted hordes of celebrities including Emma Stone, Anne Hathaway, Paul McCartney, Helen Mirren and Anthony Bourdain.

If you find Pappy & Harriett’s closed (as it is every Tuesday and Wednesday), hit up my other favorite area restaurant, Crossroads Cafe (61715 Twentynine Palms Highway, Joshua Tree), which stands literally steps away from the park’s West Entrance.  With a welcoming atmosphere and an incredible menu (Taco Pollo is my fave offering!), you can’t go wrong with a meal there.  (Big THANK YOU to my friend Kim for the photo below!)

Surrounding Pappy & Harriet’s is one of my favorite spots in the desert – Pioneertown (Entrance at Pioneertown and Curtis Roads, Pioneertown).  A collection of rickety wooden buildings lining a dusty dirt road, the site began life as a permanent movie set created by Hollywood heavyweights Gene Autry, Roy Rogers and Dale Evans in 1946.  Hundreds upon hundreds of Westerns were shot there during the genre’s heyday.  When the film shoots dried up in the late ‘60s, Pioneertown was, for whatever reason, left intact and amazingly still looks much as it did when John Wayne and Bud Abbott roamed the premises.  Today, the majority of the storefronts are occupied by fabulous specialty shops, there’s an operating onsite motel, and most weekends you’ll find the street bustling with people.  Live western shows are even staged on occasion during Palm Springs’ high season.  Pioneertown is a must-stop for kids and adults alike.

The drive from Pioneertown back to Palm Springs drops you in the heart of Yucca Valley, where there is much to explore including antique shops, high-end boutiques, and cafés.  Some of the standouts include The End (55872 Twentynine Palms Highway), a vintage store owned by 90210 costume designer Kime Buzzelli which I wrote about here (I don’t know what’s better about this place, its fabulous wares or chatting with Kime, who is the absolute best!), Acme 5 Lifestyle (55870 Twentynine Palms), a modern interior design studio, Ricochet Vintage Wears (61731 Twentynine Palms Highway), a kitschy resale store, Jen’s Pirate Booty (61729 Twentynine Palms Highway), an upscale women’s clothing store, and on the way out of town Cactus Mart (49889 Twentynine Palms Highway, Morongo Valley), one of the area’s best nurseries!

Well, that brings us to the end of My Guide to Palm Springs!  I hope you enjoyed reading through the series as much as I enjoyed putting it together.  I also hope my recommendations direct you to some fun adventures in the desert.  In case you missed my previous posts, you can check them out here – My Guide to Palm Springs – Hotels, My Guide to Palm Springs – Restaurants, My Guide to Palm Springs – Coffee, and My Guide to Palm Springs – Cocktails.  And, as always, for more stalking fun, you can follow me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Los Angeles magazine and Discover Los Angeles.